Lawn Care Tips and FAQs to Improve the Health & Look of Your Lawn
 

Good watering practices

Keeping your yard healthy does not have to be time consuming and can even be relaxing. Wise water use is one sign of a good gardener. Follow these tips to keep your lawn and garden adequately watered:

• During hot periods of the growing season, watch for signs of plant stress and in need of water. Newly planted shrubs, trees and lawns require extra attention. Rain gauges let you know when you need additional water.

• Use mulch to retain soil moisture in your planting beds. Keep weeds out of the lawn and from planting beds. Weeds compete for both water and nutrients.

• Water early in the morning to minimize evaporation and fungal diseases. If the lawn or garden is becoming stressed or endangered from lack of water, go ahead and water immediately. Avoid using sprinklers on windy days.

• Water trees and large shrubs at their drip lines (this is under the outer edge of the limbs).

• Use soaker hoses and drip irrigation to deliver water directly to the base of the plant where it's needed.

• Water deeply to promote root growth. Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. Strong root systems create hardier turfgrass. Shallow waterings evaporate before water is able to saturate into the soil where it's needed most.

• Mow your lawn at the recommended height for your type of turfgrass. Mowing grass too close causes stress and invites disease. Letting grass grow too tall also increases the chance of disease.

• Have your lawn aerated as needed to increase the soil's water absorption. Normal aeration is about every 2 years unless you have excessive thatch buildup or extreme soil compaction.

• If you have an underground sprinkler system, keep it adjusted and well maintained.

• Do not forget end-of-the-year maintenance to protect your hoses and watering system from winter freeze damage. Water expands as it freezes. At the end of the season, drain hoses, water timers and sprinklers before the first frost. Store them where they will not freeze.

Mowing tips

• Do not cut your grass too short, particular for our cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, looks better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass.

• Do not remove any more than 1/3 of the grass blade at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and you just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3 or so days between cuttings.

• Avoid mowing when the grass is wet.

• When mowing only 1/3 with each cutting, you can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.

• Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing. Altering the direction ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.

• Keep your mower's blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several blades around so you will always have a sharp one on hand.

• Do not forget to change your mower's oil at least once during the mowing season.

• If you did not drain your gas tank in the fall, or use a fuel stabilizer, do not use that old gas, it can cause a number of problems. Better to use fresh gasoline to begin the new mowing season.

Frequently Asked Questions

Below are some common questions and answers that we often receive. They should be considered as general information and may not apply to all situations. We encourage you to ask one of our trained lawn technicians or call the office during regular business hours if you have a special problem. We will be more than happy to discuss possible solutions specifically designed to address your situation.

Q: What is a pre-emergent application?
A: Pre-emergent applications, such as our corn gluten, put down a microscopic layer on the soil that prevents many seeds from sprouting, including crabgrass. This invisible shield is usually put down in early spring before the soil temperature reaches 55-60 degrees.

Q: I want to plant new grass seed this spring. Can I plant seeds after this treatment, but before the crabgrass begins to grow?
A: No. The pre-emergent will also stop desired grass from growing also. It is generally better to wait until the fall to plant new grass seed after a pre-emergent application has been put down. However, there are some special situations that we can help you with. Please call our office to discuss your situation.

Q: What is slow release fertilizer and what are the advantages of using it over other lawn fertilizers?
A: Slow release fertilizers are actually microscopic coated capsules of fertilizer that breakdown and release their important fertilizer and trace elements over a long period of time. This ensures that your lawn's root system gets those nutrients in measured doses that will not over-stimulate the plants into a sudden growing spurt requiring more mowing.

Q: What is a lime treatment and what will it do for me?
A: Lime is a naturally occurring element that can be applied to the lawn to help balance the soil's pH so that it is more conducive for turf grasses to thrive. Included in a lime treatment is also a calcium supplement. Lime naturally helps control the acidity in top soil. To get the full benefit of readily available food to your lawn, the top soil must have the optimum pH level. If the pH level is too low, the soil is not able to break down the nutrients in the soil and makes it more difficult for your turf grass to absorb those nutrients. Some soils may require more than one treatment per season. Our lawn technicians will be able to give you an accurate assessment of your soil's condition.

Q: What are grubs and why should I worry about them?
A: Grubs are actually the larval stage of a variety of different kinds of beetles, including May and June bugs and voracious Japanese beetles. Adult beetles lay their eggs in the soil in mid to late summer. As the eggs hatch, they develop into the white-wormish looking larvae. As the larvae grow, they work their way down to the root zone of your lawn where they eat the roots. Usually in early fall you will suddenly notice dead patches of lawn start showing up in your lawn if you have grubs. By this time, it is too late to effectively treat for them and they will begin the process again. Grub control is largely a matter of timing so that they can be controlled in their early stages of development and before they go deep into the soil and go dormant for the winter. At Lawn Pro, we apply a preventative grub treatment with Allectus, providing you with guaranteed season-long control.
In our Organic Program, we apply milky spore. Milky Spore is not harmful to beneficial insects, birds, bees, pets or man. Milky Spore will not affect wells, ponds or streams. Milky Spore is a bacterium that attacks grubs that live in your lawn. Once applied it continues to live in your soil giving you years of protection.
If you have a question about your lawn or landscape, please call our office and one of our technicians will stop by to give you a free, no-obligation evaluation of your lawn and how it could be improved with a Lawn Pro customized program.